Blazing a trail along the
Pacific Hikers dodge tides, travel a
rocky path not usually taken Michelle Hiskey - Staff Thursday,
August 26, 2004
For
decades people have sought their purpose in life by heading to the
Appalachian Trail, which begins in North Georgia. Nate Olive of
Chamblee hiked 2,174 miles to Maine, a feat that became a mere
steppingstone to a pioneering adventure in the great outdoors.
The 27-year-old University of Georgia graduate is now on his
third and most groundbreaking long-distance hike
[Completed Sept. 28, 2004]. He and Sarah Janes, 23, his
girlfriend and fellow UGA alum, are attempting to become the
first people to hike the dangerous, rocky coastline of the western
United States.
They began their 1,800-mile odyssey in early June on the tip
of the western "ear" of Washington, and recently crossed the Golden
Gate Bridge in San Francisco. They expect to reach Mexico by October
--- tides, health and good fortune permitting.
"We're next to the biggest wilderness in the world, the
Pacific Ocean," Olive said by telephone from northern California.
Armed with moon and tide charts because the West Coast Trail
is not a continuously marked pathway, Olive said he and Janes
"constantly skirt the high tide line as it ebbs and flows. Sometimes
we are in a little cove and the tide will come up the cliff wall,
and if we had to turn back we wouldn't be able to because the tides
seal off the exit.
"There are sneaker waves --- rogue waves --- that can come
any time, and if the cold water flipped you off a rock you are going
to go hypothermic very soon. We always have to watch out."
Olive and Janes hiked 2,638 miles on the inland Pacific
Crest Trail last year, traveling along the spine of the Cascades and
Sierra Nevadas.
"Nate and Sarah are really like pioneers on the Oregon
Trail," says Al LePage, executive director of the Oregon-based
National Coast Trail Association, who has been working since 1995 to
link 14,400 miles of beach with existing trails through state and
national parks, national forests, Indian reservations, back roads
and highways.
"You see, not only will they be traveling a comparable
distance, but they will be the first people to initiate a new hiking
'triple crown,' too. Long-distance hikers who usually have completed
the Pacific Crest, Appalachian and Continental Divide trails are
considered as having done the 'triple crown.' Well, this is the new
triple crown."
Olive's mental toughness and transcendence are his main
assets as they cover about 18 miles a day carrying everything needed
to survive in the outdoors. His journey is supported in Atlanta by
"Team Wookie" --- a play on his trail nickname --- made up of
friends and his divorced parents. They take care of his dog, Mojo,
help post his journal entries and photographs to the Web site
trailjournals.com/westcoast.
In Oregon, they had to strip and swim across a river,
risking hypothermia. They had to bushwhack through rainforest in
Washington.
Just before reaching the California border, they forgot
about the tides and scrambled to the narrow edges of high rocks.
Sometimes the deep sand feels as if they are plodding
through snow.
"If you think about how hard it is, you are going to go out
of your mind," Olive said.
Just when they might be feeling discouraged, something will
remind them why they are there. Maybe a seal will pop its head up or
a bald eagle float by.
Some people known as "trail angels" have offered them food,
shelter and boat rides across river mouths. "Usually, we don't feel
danger on the trail," Olive said. "I think, when you approach people
in a genuinely friendly way, they act the same way in return."
Competition with self
A sense of adventure came to Olive through family and
choice. The grandson of overseas missionaries, he began hiking with
his parents at a young age in North Georgia and returned to the
woods for solace after they split up.
The former "Mr. Chamblee High School" in 1995 was also
shaped by two car wrecks involving high school friends. One almost
died, and in the aftermath persuaded Olive to hike the Appalachian
Trail after college graduation in 2001.
"I was a little bit disillusioned with what the world had to
offer, that cookie-cutter track how a guy is supposed to grow up and
get a job, get married," Olive said. "I was a little unsatisfied
with that approach, but didn't know what I wanted to do. [The
Appalachian Trail] opened the world up to endless possibilities. It
taught me a lot about how I can really achieve what I wanted to do,
as long as I can identify the steps I want to do and gather the
tools. It gave me a lot of self-confidence about walking my own
path."
Another friend, Josh Price, died in a 1997 wreck, and Olive
walks to raise awareness of the nonprofit Welcome Home Ministries
that the Price family set up to benefit medically fragile foster
children. The Price family, who have adopted or fostered more than
50 children, was the subject of a May article in the AJC. Raising
awareness and more than $10,000 so far has added to Olive's sense of
purpose.
"There is a competition with myself and being diligent and
keeping up that walk ethic," Olive said. "So I do have a sense of
some kind of competition even though it's not with another person."
Olive met Janes, who is from Louisiana, through an
environmental club in Athens, and she joined him for 400 miles of
the Appalachian Trail. In 2002, they hiked the 500-mile Colorado
Trail from Denver to Durango. "We both have a strong passion to walk
through nature and simplify life," he said.
On this trip, he has whittled the essentials to 15 pounds
--- much of it camera gear, not counting water and mostly dehydrated
food. Their stove is made of V-8 juice cans and runs off denatured
alcohol. Instead of a tent, they carry a tarp. Janes, a certified
wilderness first responder able to deal with medical emergencies in
remote places, carries a 12-pound pack.
"This may be kind of too poetic or extreme, but you can see
his heart in his eyes," Janes said of the way Olive is transformed
by hiking such distances. "He soaks in everything around him, like a
sponge, and he's so well at expressing it in his words and his art,
which is his photography. It flows through him and out of him
without much being altered. . . . His passion is his experience and
sharing it, and that's what drives him."
His parents pray for him daily and try not to worry.
"Sometimes when he is talking [in his journal] about walking
on the ledge over the ocean that barely had room for their sandals,
under the crumbling wall, yeah, I get palpitations in my heart,"
said his mother, Bobbi Matthews of Chamblee. "I work in a counseling
center. I have seen it all and it makes me so happy when I read his
journals or talk to him and hear him talk about the completion, the
happiness he has. He's right where he wants to be."
"As he started on this trek, I thought this is either total
irresponsibility or something truly great," said father Tim Olive, a
photographer in Midtown. "I really believe he is a true pioneer.
Explorative self-expression is a great part of who we are as
Americans."
They pooled $4,000 to finance this four-month trip. Olive,
who has a masters in recreation ecology, receives some money from
doing research along the trail, part of a National Park Service
contract. In Mexico, they will work for the government on ways it
can attract ecotourism. Olive plans to publish a book of his
writings and photos called "Dancing the Tidal Line" that he hopes
will guide others.
"I hope that this will lead to more people getting out of
their cars and taking a stroll and really soaking in, breathing in
every moment that this beautiful world has to offer," Olive said. "I
hope it will not only enhance others' experience, but inspire and
encourage others to provide the opportunity to promote the West
Coast and other long-distance trails across the country. Whether for
a day or several hours or half a year, there are endless lessons
available to learn on the trail which can really do a lot for a
person."
The tide was flooding fast --- heaving its breathing layers
onto the sands, where they sped along and exploded into the rocks. .
. . We timed [our route along the ocean] to the steady sea pulse,
reading each rush, curl, and withdraw of the waves. . . . [It]
tested our limits near to the ends as we climbed across a rock face.
She [companion Sarah Janes] stopped midway and told me she could not
continue. The next hold was beyond her reach, and she did not trust
my hand to compensate. Against my pleading, she descended the rock
to the corner of the point, waited for the right wave to withdraw,
and leapt in the knee deep water, running instantly from a crashing
wave that would have put her and her pack underwater. Yet, her long
stride outmatched the wave speed, and I let out an immense sigh upon
hearing her sandals slapping the wet beach. --- excerpt from Nate
Olive's journal from July 11, when he and companion Sarah Janes were
crossing from Oregon to California in their continuous hike of 1,800
miles along the West Coast.
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